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Staying at Grand Hotel is a bit like embarking upon an ocean cruise. You do take a ferry to reach the island, then walk a distance to register.

Then you have to find your room. It’s a little more difficult than you might think. First, the carpeting has geranium patterns. I kept wanting to just stop and stare.

This particular pattern is actually in the Lobby Level. We’re starting our tour in the Parlor Level.

There are comfortable chairs for you to sit and chat with friends.

Those red chairs look comfy, don’t they?

Hotel staff are in savvy green coats and black trousers. They are extraordinarily friendly and helpful.

This bright green and red seating area is just outside of the Terrace Room. You’re looking at the main doors on the Parlor Level; the white stairs lead to the first floor of rooms.

To your immediate left is the Audobon Wine Bar and stairs down to the Lobby Level.

To your right is an Art Gallery, the Business Center, and the Theatre. That’s the direction we’re heading in next.

On your way to the Theatre, there are old phone booths. You can still sit down and make a phone call today – either with a house phone, or your cell phone. Just be sure to close the door so your call is private.

The theatre is cotton candy pink and white, and has beautiful brass chandeliers.

Closing Of The Grand Lecture

The Theatre reminded me of a sophisticated circus tent. One of the most enjoyable events of my stay was listening to hotel historian and concierge Bob Tagatz give his annual “Closing Of The Grand” lecture. He shared a lot of facts and figures about the 2017 season, plus some of the funnier questions received by the hotel concierge.

One guest asked if the water went all around the island.

(I’m pausing here for you to let that one sink in.)

Someone else asked, “Who leads the self-guided tours?”

(Pausing again as you’re shaking your head in disbelief.)

A longer story arose from a guest who wanted a whale watching tour arranged. Tagatz replied that that would be difficult because there are no whales in the Great Lakes. The guest was upset and asked, “Why are there no whales- where did they go?” Holding back laughter, Tagatz replied, “There are no whales because the sharks ate them.” The guest was appalled and walked away.

And if you’re confused, there are no sharks in the Great Lakes, either.

Tagatz also told a story about getting stopped by the island police. He’d just ended a long day and was headed home on his bicycle.

To get to town from Grand Hotel, you have guide your bike safely down the steep Cadotte Avenue. The police often wait at the bottom of the hill and speed check bikes. Sometimes riders are clocked at 30-40 miles per hour.

Tagatz didn’t say how fast he was going, but did admit to being mortified at being stopped. But what really bothered him? Not the ticket, but the fact that other Grand employees were also headed home, and saw him being pulled over. No doubt he heard about that incident for years.

Lobby Level

Take the red stairs down from the Parlor Level to reach the Lobby Level. This is where you find the registration desk, the children’s activity area, Astor’s Salon, and several stores.

The public areas of the Lobby is where those self-guided tours start in the summer season (spot E in the lower right corner of the map below.)

There is more geranium-themed carpet, and a casual atmosphere. This photo is just outside of Carleton’s Tea Store that offers light lunch and dessert. Many walls in the Lobby Level display photos and other memorabilia from the hotel’s 130-year history

Here’s a view from near the East entrance.

Even the access to the elevator that lead to my room on the fourth floor was elaborately decorated. Just passing by, you wouldn’t even know there was an elevator here.

You could visit each shop, but we’re late for dinner. Let’s go back up to the Parlor Level and the Main Dining Room.

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room

When you check into Grand Hotel, you receive a card that serves as your “ticket” to enter the various dining establishments. And the king of them all is the main dining room on the parlor level.

Here is a 360 degree view from right outside the main dining room doors. But you and me, we’re going inside – and straight through to the other side of the long dining room to a table for two in the Pontiac Room.

The entrance. This is where you show your ticket, and await the host who will guide you to your seat.

Once inside, the wonder begins.

And I do mean opulent decorating.

The final night of the 2017, there was a jazz trio playing throughout dinner. And your table? In a room at the far end of the dining room.

The place setting. I hope you’ve brused up on your manners, and especially what forks, spoons, and knives to use for this or that.

A cup with geranium awaits coffee or tea.

And out at the closing buffet, hundreds of matching plates await diners.

The fruit and vegetable table is ready for you to build a salad.

And the seafood table is ready, too.

Did somebody say desserts?

Yes, I ate my fill of all of it: roast beef, shrimp, smoked salmon, chocolate, and then more chocolate. I listened as one of the wait staff talked to another guest that he was leaving for home in Jamaica the next day, and hoped to be back next summer; one of the things I love about dining alone is those overheard conversations.

I visited with a couple from Clinton Township. They’d stopped at the Soaring Eagle Casino and Restort in Mount Pleasant on their way North, stayed overnight at Grand, and were on their way to another casino in St. Ignance.

Then, fully stuffed, I slowly walked my way back through the main dining room. The Jazz band played God Bless America, the Grand’s quintessential end of the evening song, and many guests sang along.

I walked to my room, amazed at the lovely day and evening I’d had. I couldn’t help but think how exclusive the Grand seemed to be – and yet so accessible and friendly. Years ago I never dreamed I’d be able to stay here, yet here I was. And it was already almost ending.

After a refreshing sleep and hot shower, I had a simple buffet breakfast, then walked to the dock. I caught another Shepler’s Ferry to the mainland, and headed home.

At Grand Hotel, each room is uniquely decorated by long-time hotel decorator Carleton Varney. My room was pink and green.

Meet Room 486

On the forth floor of Grand Hotel, Room 486 was just the right size for me. There was a full bathroom (no pictures, sorry) and a variety of typical hotel amenities like a hair dryer, coffee maker, heating and cooling controls, mini-bar, and in room safe.

The carpet was plush and soft to walk on, the bed soothing. There was a large TV, but it hardly competed with the view.

Grand retains charm and does not have those key cards that so many modern hotels have succumbed to. Instead, you get keys – real keys.

Grand Hotel Services

And there are many other ameneties to choose from – all highlighted in the luxurious folder. The flowers on the front of the folder are geraniums; they are the hotel flower, and are on the front porch all season. You’ll even see geraniums in carpeting patterns.

If you’re leaving the property to bicycle around the island, Grand Hotel will pack a picnic lunch for you. Just be sure to order from the Maitre’de Hotel in the Dining Room the night before.

Prices for the picnic lunches start at a modest $14 for a vegetarian friendly spinach tortilla wrap. The lunch includes boursin cheese, hummus, pita chips, fruit, and chocolate granola bar. Other picnic options include a turkey club crossant, buttermilk fried chicken, and shaved roast beef.

But if you’re celebrating a special occasion, why not go for Picnic Box #5 – the Grand Deluxe Basket for Two: roasted turkey on croissant, shaved roast beef on dark rye, fried chicken, shrimp salad, fruit, fresh vegetables and onion dip, camembert cheese, crackers, pretzels, house slaw, Grand Hotel truffle box, chocolate covered strawberries, and a half bottle of wine.

And while the hotel has wireless connectivity throughout, you could write a snail mail letter on fancy stationery:

The Room With A View

This was my first time staying at Grand Hotel, so I asked for a room with a view. And Room 486 had a splendid view over Cadotte Avenue, the golf course, and the island.

Who needs a huge flat-screen television when you can watch the clouds roll by? Here’s the view when I arrived in early afternoon,

and then later in the afternoon.

A break in the clouds in early evening,

Followed by a subdued sunset.

Luggage

As a guest of Grand Hotel, you needn’t drag your luggage around the island. Instead, your luggage is whisked away when you check into Shepler’s Ferry and magically arrives at the door of your room an hour or so later.

I did say an hour or so. As in at least sixty minutes.

Luggage is delivered to Grand Hotel via horse and wagon. In fact, pretty much everything comes to the hotel via horse and wagon. From my room I did spy a tractor moving around the golf course, but that was definitely an exception.

And how does your luggage get back to the main land? By horse, wagon, and boat. And from this room, I saw the horse and wagon in action all day.

Here’s the view in early morning. The day is just beginning, and the windows are a little foggy. It rained overnight, and the weather is October blustery.

But down below my room, a wagon and team of horses are waiting while luggage is attached. The luggage is delivered to the Sheppler’s dock, then rolled right onto the same ferry that transports you home. Note that the driver is checking his cell phone.

Another team of horses had just turned around, and was taking a load of people to the docks, too.

And here, the driver, wagon, and your luggage is on the way to the docks.

Just like delivery, it will take the luggage about an hour to make its way from the hotel, to the docks, then back to Sheppler’s. When you arrive back at Sheppler’s you gather your keys, then wait for luggage.

The Sheppler’s “cast members” unload each and every one of Grand Hotel’s pieces of luggage into a tent. Then you can claim your luggage, head to your car, and be on your way home.

We’re not quite done with our tour of Grand Hotel, though. Stop by tomorrow when we get to see more of the inside of Grand Hotel.

After walking around town and up and down to Fort Mackinac, it was nearly 2pm, so I decided to head over to Grand Hotel. It was at least a fifteen minute walk, and I was in no hurry.  I stayed on Main Street, and kept to the coast.

Getting “Lost” On Mackinac Island

Like a complete Grand Hotel newbie, I didn’t realize that I was supposed to take a different street, so I stayed on the same shore road.

It was a gorgeous walk – as I’ve said elsewhere, the weather was amazing. I even got a little sunburned – albeit bundled up in a light winter jacket.

The straights and Bridge were always to the left of me…just over the waves.

 

 

Not too long after this, I saw a couple walking down a side street. The woman was dressed in 1912 attire. This didn’t surprise me much because first, it’s almost Halloween and second, the Somewhere In Time weekend had just ended at Grand. So I figured the couple had been on the island for that.

They walked along the same street, too. Right past the local school yard and there, up above us, was Grand Hotel. I followed that couple right through the open field behind the school to the right road to reach the Grand.

Arriving At the Grand

I actually went in the wrong door. I know, I know.

But I’d never stayed at the hotel, I had no clue where the check-in desk was located. Besides, my last visit to the Island was in 5th grade – how would I know where the registration desk at the Grand was?

So I walked up to the portes-cochère (ie., where the horse drawn carriage stops,) past that horse drawn carriage, and up the front steps. I paused long enough to take in everyone gathered on thev extraordinary porch, then stepped into the posh lobby on the Parlor Level. There was no registration desk.

Eventually I walked down a different flight of stairs and there – on the Lobby Level – and right by a door I’d walked by in my hurry to climb the main stairs to the longest porch in the world – was the understated registration desk.

In a short time I got my room key, visited the room long enough to freshen up a bit, and headed back outside to enjoy more of the day. You’ll see pictures of my room and the inside of Grand later this week. I wanted to walk around the gardens.

Grand Hotel Gardens

First, it’s October in Michigan. Most of the flowers are gone or nearly gone. Still, those of us who live here love the change of seasons.

And on this spectacular day, how could I not go out and wander around the gardens in front of the hotel?

My goal was to walk the labyrinth.

I headed out the main doors on the Parlor Level, and down the red-carpeted stairs.

If you paused before walking down the stairs, you might see that a team of horses and an enclosed carriage awaits.

Not a bad idea on a chilly Autumn day, but I was here to find the labyrinth and explore the gardens.

Do you see the stair railing on the left? That’s where I headed.

Half way down those stairs is a lovely spot to sit and take in the view. Or not…that’s salt you see spread on the floorboards.

It had been below freezing the night before, so the Grand put salt down to make the walkway safe. By the time I arrived, any danger of ice was gone, but the salt crystals remained crunching underfoot.

From the vantage point of table and chairs, you walk down more stairs to the main lawn. The labyrinth was supposed to be just to the right

I passed by the rose walk – with no roses in bloom, of course – wrong season. I walked by the wedding garden, too.

Eventually I deduced that the labyrinth is inside of the pool complex, which was closed for the season.

But I did spy the Esther Williams swimming pool.

And yes, it is named for the actress Esther Williams. She starred in the 1947 movie This Time For Keeps which (just like the movie Somewhere In Time) was filmed at the Grand.

I found bikes racked up for storage.

And a blue-sky view of the hotel from the bike rack, too.

Cedar Forest Stroll

In the same area, there’s a grove of cedar trees that during summer would provide much needed shade and cool. My stroll was crisp and sunny with leaves crunched under my feet.

I did meet a few people along the way, and one ivy-covered carriage without horses.

Fortunately, the team of horses was nearby.

People walking by said that both are displayed through the season by the fountain. But because I was there on the last day of the season, they had been sent “out to pasture” in the cedar forest.

The same area there was a lovely hidden nook. I adore little spaces like this in gardens.

And then I turned back towards the hotel to see this. Amazing, all over again.

The steep hill on the right is covered with wildflowers during the summer.

Followed by a short stop at the fountain…

just long enough to capture a short video.

 

Then I went to the western end of that long, long porch and looked towards out over the straits. I could probably spend an entire day sitting on the porch. With a book and a cocktail or two to chase off the heat of summer, it would be perfect.

The red geraniums are a Grand tradition. On the final day, guests can even take geraniums home.

Grand Hotel Porch

This is the longest porch in the world. Throughout the summer season it is *the* place to sit and relax in rocking chairs. But on the last day of the season, the guests help carry the chairs inside.

Still, it doesn’t matter if there are a handful of people on the porch,

or a lucky snapshot with no people on the porch,

it’s always a stunning porch to see.

Be sure to stop back tomorrow to see my room with a view!